Research

Fluent was used to conduct a simulation to observe the velocity in waves breaking on shore.  The tank used in the simulation had a still water level of 90cm,  the waves had a height of 4cm and a period of 1.11 seconds. The simulated beach consisted of two slopes. The first (seaward) slope was 35% and the second (landward) slope where breaking occurred was 10%.

Shoaling Waves (wmv)

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