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Temple University
League for Entrepreneurial Women
Written
by Cristen Miller
WOMEN IN
BOOTS:
BETH CROSS AND THE ARIAT
STORY
Beth Cross was raised on a farm outside
Swarthmore, Pennsylvania. Her parents were successful entrepreneurs,
and the farm was used for raising thoroughbreds - two aspects of
her childhood which, with the advantage of hindsight, now appear
to have crucially shaped her future. Beth was indeed fated to forge
ahead as a businesswoman by introducing unlikely innovations in
what is possibly the most traditional of all worlds: the seemingly
male dominated world of English Saddle riding. Flair and an unusual
capacity to see opportunities for improvement where others could
not, together with persistence and hard work, contributed to make
her venture an unqualified success.
After completing her MBA at Stanford University,
Beth, along with fellow student Pam Parker, began working at Bain
Consulting Group. As colleagues, Beth and Pam worked for athletic
shoe companies Reebok and Avia, developing designs and strategies,
where they came across equestrian footwear. As a horse rider, Beth
knew the extent to which riding shoes were technologically backward.
But when at Reebok she floated the idea of entering the equestrian
boot market, the response was, "Nice idea, but riding boots
aren't sold at Foot Locker." Beth's own response was to quit
her position at Bain and work full-time drawing up a business plan
for going into that market. If sporting goods stores didn't sell
riding boots, tack stores would surely do.
In planning their strategy, Beth and Pam's
first thought was to identify the main problem with riding boots:
an ill fit. Based on what they knew about sneakers, they took up
the challenge of producing a new, technologically advanced boot,
thus gambling on a market that hadn't been tampered with for over
one hundred years.
To start, Beth and Pam tried to save money to compensate for their
loss of income, making do with whatever fees they got from independent
consulting projects with such companies as Upper Deck and Lionel
Train, but eventually phasing even this out to concentrate on launching
their business. The move had its advantages, for if potential investors
expected from them financial proof of commitment, then the $80,000
lost income from their consulting should be enough.
Next, the two women hired a designer they
had met at Reebok to assist in the "blueprint" of their
first boot. Using other contacts with the athletic shoe industry,
as well as opinions from top riders and trainers at that time, they
revamped the boot by developing what they called the "Advanced
Torque Stability Footbed," a technology involving a forked,
carbon-fiber shank and gel cushioning. This, together with the characteristics
of the leather and the fit, was meant to provide the rider not only
with superior efficiency and control in the saddle, but also with
superb comfort and support on rough ground - for, as Beth knew,
walking was what riders did 80% of their time!
At that time, the technology envisaged would
propel a long-established, nineteenth century design forward into
the late twentieth century. Would traditionalist riders approve?
In an image-based sport, both in the U.S. and abroad, maintenance
of the established, time-honored appearance of a conventional boot
was critical. Yet like all good entrepreneurs, Beth had "a
sharp eye for shifting customer wants and needs, new technological
developments, openings to enter attractive foreign markets, and
other important signs of growing or shrinking business opportunity".
After an intense period of hard work, Ariat was born. The name,
Beth says, means "Perfect Performance" in Italian.
Before Ariat's entry into the riding boot
market, women's boots were often designed as a merely smaller specimen
of the male version, with no regard to differences between the shape
and contour of the feet and calves of men and women - despite knowledge
of the fact that about ninety percent of English riders were women!
Ariat wasted no time in designing boots specifically for women,
producing a basic prototype in April 1991. Following this, a few
elite riders were chosen to be "testers," a valuable marketing
strategy Beth and Pam had learned while working with Avia and Reebok.
The testers were instructed to provide feedback so that the designs
could be modified accordingly.
With a prototype now in the bag, Beth was
put in charge of seeking out investors. Because equestrian sports
are a kind of "country-club" sport, many of her would
be investors had some affiliation with horses, among them the Fisher
family who own The Gap, Inc. Convincing such people, however, was
not easy. Beth's first contacts were businessmen who seemed to have
little regard for women in general. These men considered any woman
owning her own company "risky business". However, Beth
used her femininity to her advantage, an advantage she calls the
"element of curiosity". Investors, she explains, are naturally
curious to see what a woman could possibly come up with in terms
of boot manufacturing, and that was her ticket in. So, given the
slightest opening, Beth went in confident that she could market
her innovative, quality product. And she was right. In a short amount
of time, she managed to raise enough capital to start her business.
And yet the road ahead was still uphill.
According to Beth, the more serious problem was persuading retailers
that the boots would be profitable, as they seemed convinced that
she could never sell a modernized product to a traditional rider.
Time after time, she recalls being turned away by shop owners and
managers: they didn't need any more boots on their walls, she should
do something else with her time. Beth's response was that she wanted
to be number one. They told her she was nuts, that it can't be done.
Beth politely yet firmly disagreed. As she put it, "If people
say 'no, it can't be done', you come back and ask again."
Finally, however, Beth managed to place
10 pairs of Ariat boots in a store to sell. From there on, to hear
her say it, "word spread like wildfire." Ariat participated
in as many wholesale trade shows as financially possible, getting
the product out to industry leaders and athletes for feedback. It
then launched full-scale advertising campaigns in vertical publications,
taking up full-page color ads in eight of the leading equestrian
publications. At the ads were coming out, Beth was eight months
pregnant with her first child. January 27, 1993, saw the birth of
the first orders and of Beth's first son. On that day, even in labor,
Beth was all business, handling over fifty calls and asking nurses
to send faxes for her. In a week, she was back to work, going on
to realize, within the first year of business, four hundred thousand
dollars in revenue.
Advertising at this stage was crucial to
rapid growth, helping turn Ariat into an overnight success. Within
five years, Mel Gibson was to appear on the cover of People wearing
his Ariats, as was George W. Bush in photos of him walking about
his ranch.
Unfortunately, in 1995 due to health reasons
Pam Parker had to leave Ariat, forcing Beth to take on the roles
of both President and CEO of a company that was growing at an average
of thirty percent each year. The store that originally bought ten
pairs of boots from Ariat was now buying ten thousand annually,
a sales volume replicated up and down the US. With such strong home
sales, Ariat reached out for the world, capturing in the process
a large part of the UK market. In fact, Ariat is now the leader
in English riding boots sales in the world.
Here at home, Ariat is now the fastest-growing
Western riding boot producer, a position that helped promote it
to its present role of official boot of the U.S. Equestrian Team
and the NHSRA (National High School Riding Association). (Ariat
had already won, in 1997, the Western Image Award from the Dallas
Western Market and a Seal of Acceptance from the American Pediatric
Medical Association. ) Today, Ariat sells to over four thousand
worldwide accounts and employs one hundred twenty-five people, with
a top line of revenues ranging between fifty and sixty million.
Beth's plan for the future now involves
entering the equestrian apparel market, while maintaining constant
her niche market - selling a greater variety of products to mostly
the same consumers. Given Ariat's high profile and reputation for
quality products, this focus on new product development should prove
successful, for unless the current economic downturn worsens considerably,
there is no reason to suppose that the purchasing power of Ariat's
main clientele, and its appreciation of quality, is likely to change.
Did Beth ever have doubts? "No,"
says Beth flatly, quoting Goethe: 'Whatever you can do or dream
you can, begin it! Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it.'"
What, then, makes an entrepreneur successful?
Anyone can formulate an idea, perhaps even a plan. However, executing
that plan is where real genius comes in. In the face of countless
denials and disagreements, the resignation of her partner, and the
pressure and practical difficulties associated with the birth of
her first child, Beth came through with flying colors. And she had
the expertise and the boldness to see the possibility of applying
state of the art technologies and marketing techniques to a product
that appeared unredeemingly stagnant. "Entrepreneurial strategy-makers
are inclined to be fast-movers, responding quickly and opportunistically
to new developments. They are willing to take prudent risks and
initiate trailblazing strategies". Beth Cross' audacious and
bold redesign of a tradition proved to be entrepreneurial brilliance.
Bibliography
Brown, Steven E. F, "Riding High: Union
City riding footwear spurs revenue growth
with bold moves," San Francisco Business Times, 18 June 2001,
http://sanfrancisco.bizjournals.com/sanfrancisco/stories/2001/02/18/smallb1.html
(22 October 2002)
DeWeese, Daniel. "Ariat: From the Ground
Up." Western Horseman (1999): 126-132
Kaufmann, Martin. "Pace Horse: Ariat's
two women founders catch a ride in specialty
Niche." Sportstyle (1997): 21-22
Thompson, Arthur A. Jr. and Strickland, A.J.
III. Strategic Management: Concepts and
Cases. Boston: McGraw-Hill, 1998.
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